Counts, Gypsies, Geniuses: Europe's Last Frontier,' Romania stands at a crossroads. Centuries-old rural communities, world heritage sites and counts with crumbling castles are moving with the times as scars of the Ceausescu era fade. Our trio of stories captures a country on the verge of discovery: one looks to the future, one eyes the past, while another offers a glimpse of a way of life that lies altogether outside time.